We constantly hear of brands with years of history behind them, reinventing themselves for today’s modern man and finding the same successes that has seemingly followed them through time. Yet while Motto and Crest Ties draw on hundreds of years of British traditional manufacturing techniques, the brand itself is only 6 months old. Whether it’s youthful energy, or just not knowing any better, designer and founder Christopher Moyle manages to capture the essence of the heritage and history behind the mens suit, but with a high-end modern edge that is refreshingly unique. Drawing on the originators of menswear; Prince Edward VII, James Potter and Henry Poole & Company, the all-new Black Tie collection personifies the timeless allure of a luxury tie. Whether it’s the black silk satin crossed with wool of the Prince and the Potter, or the leather strip intercutting the silk satin of the Poole, the Motto and Crest Black Tie Collection is a modern statement, founded in years of history.
We caught up with Christopher Moyle in Oxfordshire, England to ask him a few questions.
LH: You launched Motto and Crest only a few months ago and have already been named as one of the Accessory Brands to Watch in 2009 by respected publication Menswear Buyer and been a Top 25 pick in Monocle’s Annual Style Survey (Oct issue). How do you explain the success and praise you’ve received in such a short period of time?
CM: Motto and Crest officially launched this spring just gone and over the summer I began actively introducing press to the brand. The feedback has been very positive and I believe it’s driven by the fact that the ties are something new that haven’t been seen before, that they’re original and wearable, that they have an integrity that derives from the traditional menswear fabrics used to make them and that they’re made in Northampton, England.
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LH: What’s the inspiration behind the Black Tie Collection?
CM: The Black Tie collection is inspired by taking the typical dinner suit elements and reworking them in a way that makes something modern and that can be dressed up or down. The ties are bit Roxy Music meets the Ritz!
LH: They seem to be striking a chord, as the ties are selling like hotcakes, did you envision these ties to be such a hot commodity when you designed them?
CM: I’ve always had a positive feeling about the ties and the reception to them because I had a very strong reaction personally to the first tie I made, which was the Emminster pattern. I made that tie because I had an idea for a tie that I wanted to buy and as it didn’t exist yet, I tried making it myself by taking an old tie apart, making a pattern, etc. I wasn’t sure if it would work or not but when it was done, I thought it looked great! I then spent about a week just making different ties and seeing what worked, what didn’t and made a selection from there of the strongest designs. I then took them with me to meet my manufacturer – by that point I’d decided that the ties were going to be professionally made. I think they’re popular because they’re something new but they’re not gimmicky or tricksy. They’re interesting, wearable, modern, innovative and there’s a good mix of colors and styles available depending on how fashion-forward someone is. You can wear a tie like Chaseborough, Mellstock or Marlott and at first glance people aren’t quite sure what’s going on. Then they look again and get it. The Black Ties have been phenomenally successful since launching last week – I think the leather has a lot to do with it!
LH: Skinny Ties… they’re “in” now, how long do you see the style lasting? What will come after?
CM: When I started, I was actually making the ties on a mid-tip width, of about 8cm. The ties now are made to about 7cm. I always say that my ties are slim rather than skinny and I think that helps them look fresh while also being a bit more timeless than the extremely skinny ties that are available. I’m sticking with 7cm for a while because it looks right with the cut of suits and shirts at the moment (I’m horrified at how wide some of the old ties are – you know the ones that are at the back of the wardrobe and I wonder how I ever wore them as I’m on the slim side myself). To me, the really skinny ties that are no wider than a placket front have probably run their course and don’t really work with Motto and Crest ties because of the detail and paneling that make up the tie.
LH: Your ties are made by one of the country’s oldest manufacturers -was it a conscious choice to choose a manufacturer with such tradition? Does it affect your designs (if so, how)?
CM: As the ties had been so inspired by England, I really wanted to work with a British manufacturer and I totally hit the jackpot with the guy I found. He makes for everyone from boarding schools to Savile Row and I am definitely his most challenging customer in terms of asking him to try new things! I wanted to work with someone smaller so we could make limited runs of things and try new ideas that a bulk manufacturer overseas might have no interest in doing. My manufacturer is real excited about the brand -the first time he saw the ties he was onboard. He has a great wealth of knowledge on what works and what doesn’t but he’s also not scared of just giving something a go if I hit him with another of my brainwaves. When I first suggested leather panels, for example, there was a very long silence at the end of the phone but by the end of the conversation he’d worked out how to do it and was off and cutting!
LH: Since you make ties, we gotta ask the questions: what’s the ultimate shirt to pair with a Motto and Crest Black Tie?
CM: Ultimate shirt? If it’s worn with anything other than a suit, any slim fit white oxford is my number one choice. With a suit, it’s got to be something white, crisp and starched from Thomas Pink.
You can pick up the Black Tie Collection; either the Poole (pre-order), Prince, or Potter here.
