Universal Works is one of the better brands coming out of the UK right now. While the minimalist approach might not have that wow factor for some, the fact that founder David Keyte has names like Paul Smith & Maharishi on his CV more than makes up for it. Pretty impressive for a man who started adult-life as a coal miner. At present, his line is sold at Bloomingdales and Fenwicks and has already been featured in GQ, FHM, Arena and Time Out. We’re into the working-class influence in the Bakers Jacket, part of the second Collection released by Universal Work for Spring/Summer 2010. Made of lightweight Chambray cotton, the cut is functional with a simple button front fastening and symmetrical pockets, placed for as much practicality as they are for design.  Available at Oi Polloi and Glass Boutique.

Read More

You’ve no doubt already come across these already on your online travels but we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to mark the relative resurgence of casual suspenders. It’s no surprise that Japanese heritage brand Edwin – who has been producing denim since 1969 – is behind this latest reincarnation. These here are Edwin Vintage’s Japanese Selvage denims kitted out with leather-strap suspenders as part of their brilliant Vintage collection, made from 13 oz selvage denims produced on shuttle weaving machine with specially developed uneven thread. The result is the same soft feeling fabric you get from your favorite old pair of comfort jeans; that vintage look yet of extremely high quality. Available here.

Read More

Kurt Geiger has teamed up with some pretty heavy footwear hitters recently like Grenson and Tricker’s. Now, it’s Sebago’s go at it and expectations are riding high. For Spring/Summer 2010, they’ve teamed together to offer an exclusive and limited-edition capsule collection of a reworked classic. The result, is another version of Sebago’s popular Dockside Beacon Boot dubbed the ‘Manitou’ as an ode to its New England heritage and aptly named after the 62ft yacht sailed by JFK during his presidency. Produced in a leather and suede combination and available in three colour options including chocolate brown and beige, mint green, grey and cream and sky blue. Available here.

Read More

For whatever reason, we don’t get into pants nearly as much as we should. Maybe it’s because you’ll be hard pressed to find anybody from the office in anything but denim. Otherwise, there has never been a shortage of good selections from some usual suspects: Wings+Horns, Woolrich, and W-Taps. Some labels actually have us considering elements well outside our usual – Engineered Garments has us actually considering some fatigues. This brings us to UK-based Griffin, whose Spring/Summer 2010 collection recently dropped to well deserved fanfare.

Known in the urban cyclist community for quality cut and sewns that are equally functional for city rides, Griffin’s impressive collection this season features among many things, a nice trouser selection. Needing a fairly rugged gray pant, the slimmer fitting Kingston trouser’s were decided upon after first catching a glipse of the buttoned flap pockets. Made in Italy from Italian denim, their feel is thick and luxurious to the touch with all the quality Griffin has been known for for 20 years. If you’re looking for something even more rugged, another favorite of ours, their Archback Trousers are made from made-in-England, British Millerian Dry Wax fabric. Attention to detail is key on Griffin’s line up. Everything has been considered and only the best was chosen. From the British Army Desert Camo fabric on the inside waistband to the wise decision to include handmade zips by RIRI of Switzerland.

Mine require some breaking in with a few bike rides this Spring, but with my experience in breaking in raw denim, I’m rather looking forward to the process.

Available here.

Read More

Robert Geller’s short career path is the envy of almost all designers.  After moving from Germany to attend RISD, he joined Marc Jacobs and contributed to four lines, before joining Alexandre Plokhov in the redesign of Cloak, where he contributed to five lines that won awards from the Ecco Domani to a Vogue/CFDA grant.  He launched his own line in 2007 and the plaudits for his sharp downtown designs have come from all corners.  Here he rethinks the vest with a two-tone plum and black waistcoat.  It exudes versatility in spades, both in all-weather wearability (made from 60% linen) and design, with a unique collar and cut that would look equally as good over a dress shirt and tie as it would over your favorite henley or t-shirt.  In fact, nearly any vest is great for layering and vibe, this one just offers a bit more.  Available here.

Read More

An essential piece in your wardrobe for this time of year is a light coat, preferably somewhat waterproof. Whether you happen to be looking for a tailored look or something more modern, British brand Oliver Spencer has some fantastic options that are sure to suit your needs. From one end of the spectrum you have the Short Mac Carlyle and Suffolk Jackets in Navy or Khaki. Both give you that classic belted trenchcoat look, with slim tailored silhouette. If you need something more modern and casual, the all new Quay Jacket is young and fresh looking alternative; the hooded jacket pulls on over your head with a half button placket with wooden buttons, and a cream herringbone lining and a drawcord around the hem with leather pulleys. Either way you go, the elegant aesthetic and exquisite craftsmanship blend the youthful exuberance of streetwear stylings, with the focus and attention to detail found on all your favorite timeless classics. Available here.

Read More

New Balance took last year’s very bland Gore-Tex collab and injected some vibrant new life, using the flight-jacket/military inspiration route and releasing a Gore-Tex collab MTG580. They are arguably the nicest NB’s since Jeff Staple’s Pigeons although, the flight-jacket inspiration is nothing new in the game. That being said, the interchangeable Velcro “N” logos are fun, and the overall construction using highly durable rough Gore-Tex fabric is something more brands should offer. So if you missed out on the last 3 rounds of Undefeated’s Poorman Weapons, here’s your shot. Available July 2010.

Read More

Humor is a young Danish brand which takes inspiration from worldwide DJ and electronic music culture, mixing and sampling colors and materials from  movements past and present to create something fresh.  Their newest collection is a colorful mix directly inspired by the people of Tokyo’s Shibuya district.  One standout is the Nerve bomber jacket in a light grey suede.  It features a ribbed knitted hem, a knitted tabbed collar, which can stand up or down, and a panelled design on the front and back, which is raised to one side and recessed on the other for that extra pop.  Available here.

Our regular readers don’t need reminding of our love for all things Billykirk.  Their Amish handmade leather accessories give you that perfect blend of classic and understated, with a healthy dose of modern silhouettes, and rugged durability.  Their waxed cotton carryalls are a particular favorite, which we’ve covered before, but we wanted to draw attention to their new navy colorway.  Personally, I’m always a fan of a navy and black combination.  It’s both extremely versatile and completely modern.  It’s amazing to think that not too long ago the combination was frowned upon in more staid circles (actually, it probably still is in the particularly crusty climes).  Thumb your nose at those peeps.  Available here.

One of the things we most look forward to every year is The North Face and Supreme collaboration. You may recall earlier drops in the form of the Summit Series, fleece collection and Denali in previous years, but this latest in the form of an anorak is the truth. Personally, I’ve always found this collaboration a bit off putting. There always seems to be something a bit off with the colorways or one year (back in 2007), the choice to run the brand name down the sleeve.

This season’s Expedition Pullover features a 100% waterproof 3-layer faille weave shell with tricot backing. Available in three colors, the jacket will release on March 18th in the US for both in-store and online as well as March 20th, in Japan. Many of us haven’t owned a pullover jacket in ages, but if there’s one to get, this is it. Points for the camo.

Read More

Another smart label doing exclusive tee designs is Cheer Up, out of Surrey, UK. Some days, you just need a graphic tee either as a base layer or a stand alone. And we’ll concede there’s never been a shortage of graphic tee companies, ever. That having been said, adding to a successful F/W 2009 collection, co-founders Edward Thomas and Matt Barnes have collaborated with illustrator and designer Keaton Heston to produce a new limited edition range for the Spring. While the new pieces each represent different aspects of the “feel good” philosophy that we love, the brand has also focused efforts on working with environmentally-friendly suppliers. The designs are playful and fun, while displaying a very fashion-forward aesthetic. Suitable for your casual Fridays, but that make a statement. Available here.

Read More

Nestled beside an Art Gallery on a typical Parisian street, resides a creative shop like no other. A place where you become the designer and the artist, tailor-making your very own wardrobe from jackets, to sweaters, to shirts, to sneakers. From N°11 Blue Lagoon and N°22 Paradise Pink to flannel jackets and cashmere scarves, you can have your article hand painted in 180g’s  atelier in over 100 rich, nuanced, luminous colors.

Owner and co-founder of 180g, Nicolas Chevalier first came up with the concept during an exhibition for Donna Karan in New York City with a desire to push his art to the next level, to make it dynamic and surprising. His paintings however, ended up on clothing rather than canvas. From there it didn’t take long before the unique pieces were being well received and launched in high-end shops like Isetan in Tokyo & Harrods in London.

From all that, 180grammes was born. A creative boutique that mixes tailor-made clothing and hand-dyed pieces where people can feel truly connected to their clothing. Most may recall 180g and Chevalier’s work on a collaboration with Nike whereby the Tennis Classic, Air Flytop, and Flash were given the 180grammes treatment. The process allowed for the materials on the models to be custom dyed, achieving a tailor-made type of aesthetic with various premium textiles and custom detailing. The result was an array of metallic and earthy monochromes with a slightly worn and unfinished look.

We recently caught up with artist, designer and owner of 180g Nicolas Chevalier, and toured the workshop.

Read More